The iris, that singular flower, is much more than a garden ornament. In perfumery, it is a precious ingredient that embodies sophistication and elegance. Let's dive into the fascinating world of the iris, from its origins to its use in the greatest perfumes.

Iris origins and characteristics
The iris takes its name from the Latin iris, itself borrowed from the Greek iris, meaning “rainbow”. This designation refers not only to the wide variety of colors the flower can display, but also to its mythological origins. In Greek mythology, Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and messenger of the gods. She was particularly associated with the goddess Hera, bringing her only good news. Beyond its connection with the divine, the iris also has a close relationship with royalty, since, according to legend, it was used by Clovis to escape the Visigoths. Since then, it has come to symbolize power and prestige.

The cosmetic use of iris dates back to ancient Egypt, where it was associated with personal care and cosmetics. Today, iris is cultivated mainly for its rhizome, which is used in perfumery. With over 300 varieties, the iris can be found in many parts of the world, but some varieties are particularly prized for their exceptional quality.

Iris harvesting and extraction methods
Growing iris requires patience and know-how. Indeed, it takes no less than 6 years to harvest its absolute. The rhizomes, used to extract the fragrant compounds, are harvested after three years of growth. This period allows the rhizomes to accumulate aromatic compounds in maximum concentration. The rhizomes are extracted by hand, washed and dried for several months. This drying phase is crucial, as it allows the rhizomes to lose much of their water and develop the irones, the molecules responsible for their distinctive fragrance.

The harvest generally takes place between July and September, by hand, to avoid damaging the rhizomes. After drying, the rhizomes are sliced and packaged before undergoing a second three-year drying cycle. This final process is essential for concentrating aromas and creating high-quality products.

Flavors are extracted by two main methods: steam distillation and solvent extraction. Steam distillation produces a light extract, while solvent extraction produces an iris absolute, a concentrate highly prized for its purity and high cost.

Iris Olfactory Profile The olfactory profile of iris is unique. Iris unfurls powdery notes, evoking the softness of velvet and the finesse of silk. This softness is enriched by woody, earthy nuances that add depth and complexity to the fragrance.

What really sets iris apart is its “blurred” effect. Unlike other ingredients that can dominate, iris diffuses a subtle elegance, bringing a touch of sophistication without overpowering the other notes in the fragrance. Iris notes are often described as creamy and slightly sweet, with a velvety softness that echoes accords of violet, wood and earth.

Iconic Fragrances with Iris

The iris has inspired many iconic fragrances, each highlighting its unique qualities in a different way.

• 1979 New Wave by Les Bains Guerbois
  1979 New Wave by Les Bains Guerbois is a fragrance that blows hot and cold, featuring two qualities of mint whose invigorating harmony can't extinguish a muted, creamy iris butter. A modern, daring and resolutely singular composition.
• Prada Infusion d’Iris
  Launched in 2007, Prada Infusion d'Iris is a modern example of the use of iris in perfumery. This fragrance captures the purity and freshness of iris with subtle touches of wood and resin. The fragrance offers a refined olfactory experience, where iris is revealed in all its powdery, elegant splendor.
• Dior Homme Intense
  Dior Homme Intense, introduced in 2011, explores a bolder, more complex facet of iris. This fragrance combines iris with woody and spicy notes, creating a fragrance that is both rich and seductive. Iris is brought to the fore in all its depth, offering a captivating, virile olfactory experience.
• Hiris by Hermès
  Hiris by Hermès is a perfect example of the sophisticated integration of iris into fragrance compositions. This fragrance highlights the sweetness and richness of iris, while combining it with elegant, contemporary notes, making each application a true sensory voyage.

Conclusion
The iris is a flower that has survived the ages to become a precious ingredient in perfumery. With its mythological origins, complex cultivation methods and distinctive olfactory profile, the iris continues to captivate perfume lovers around the world. Whether you're a perfume enthusiast or a curious novice, taking the time to discover an iris-based fragrance is an experience well worth having. Each fragrance is a tribute to the beauty and sophistication of this royal flower, offering a glimpse of its timeless charm.

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