In a world where consumers are increasingly concerned about the composition of the products they use daily, perfumes are no exception. The quest for authenticity, well-being, and environmental respect is driving more and more perfume enthusiasts towards formulas composed exclusively of natural ingredients. Some major brands, like Chloé, are seizing this trend to offer perfumes claiming 100% natural ingredients. “Nature does things well,” is a popular saying, but does it hold true in the case of perfumery? What are the arguments for and against this growing trend towards natural perfumes?

THE ORIGINS OF MODERN PERFUMERY

The advent of modern perfumery as we know it today can be traced back to the mid-19th century, a time of industrial progress and scientific discoveries. Among these was the discovery of new molecules such as coumarin (naturally present in lavender or tonka bean), synthesized by the English chemist William H. Perkin in 1868.

During the 20th century, perfumery experienced unprecedented expansion with the industrialization of the sector and the emergence of major perfume houses such as Chanel, Guerlain, and Dior. Their perfume compositions now include newly discovered synthetic molecules, such as white musks (White Musk by The Body Shop – 1981), aldehydes (Chanel N°5 – 1921), hedione (Eau Sauvage by Dior – 1966), vanillin (Shalimar by Guerlain – 1925), calone (New West by Aramis – 1990), or lilial (Diorissimo by Dior – 1956). These molecules represented a boon for perfumers of the time by opening up new olfactory horizons. Within a few years, the perfumer’s palette was considerably enriched with the gradual arrival of a multitude of new molecules, allowing for unprecedented combinations. Paradoxically, the scents of nature have never been so well reproduced.

NATURAL PERFUMES, A GUARANTEE OF QUALITY?

The use of natural ingredients in perfume formulas is perceived by some as a guarantee of quality. Using natural ingredients in a perfume would guarantee superior olfactory quality. It is true that natural raw materials generally have more olfactory facets than a simple molecule (for example: the scent of a rose contains between 300 and 450 molecules). However, it is important to note that using natural ingredients does not necessarily guarantee the quality or authenticity of a perfume. In fact, the scent of the natural ingredient will live uniquely on the wearer’s skin, with a richness not found in a simple synthetic molecule. The olfactory profile of the natural ingredient will depend on various factors such as its extraction method, variety, or origin, thereby multiplying its olfactory possibilities.

Lacking the “relief” of natural essences, so-called “synthetic” molecules can have properties that most natural ingredients generally lack, such as fixing the perfume. As the name suggests, an ingredient acting as a fixative will prolong the fragrance's longevity by making it less volatile. Known synthetic fixatives include cashmeran and Iso E Super. Synthetic ingredients have the advantage of not being subject to climatic, geographical, etc., variations. A maltol molecule will always smell exactly like another maltol molecule. Furthermore, synthetic ingredients in perfumery will be more stable on the skin than their natural counterparts, which is a significant advantage for industrialists.

Synthetic ingredients are sometimes necessary to give greater authenticity to a composition. For example, “mute flowers” in perfumery refer to plants that do not naturally produce fragrant essences. These include lily of the valley, lilac, peony, and violet. Synthetic molecules are then used to recreate the flower’s scent as we perceive it in nature. The “natural” scent in a perfume often comes from molecules associated with each other, not from an essence or an absolute.

Ultimately, the quality of a perfume is above all a matter of personal appreciation, which can be influenced by various factors such as the origin of the ingredients, the reputation of the perfumer, the brand marketing it, the appearance of the packaging, or the customer experience. Beyond the olfactory aspect, the quality of a perfume can also be appreciated through its creativity.

ARE NATURAL PERFUMES LESS HARMFUL?

One argument in favor of natural perfumes is that natural ingredients would be less harmful, even harmless, to health than synthetic ingredients. However, it is important to note that perfumes, whether they contain exclusively natural ingredients or not, can contain potentially allergenic or irritating compounds. Therefore, a perfume’s safety depends more on individual tolerance and sensitivity to the different compounds it contains. Natural perfumes can also contain natural allergens from plant extracts or essential oils.

IFRA is the International Fragrance Association, the official international representative body of the perfume industry. Its main purpose is to ensure the safety of perfume raw materials for health and the environment through a dedicated scientific program. IFRA is behind a Code of Practice for industrialists that restricts or outright bans ingredients that may pose a risk to consumers. This code is regularly updated to prevent the risks of using perfume on health.

In any case, it is recommended to test products on a small area of the skin before prolonged use. It is also good to note that a person who does not have an allergy is not at risk of wearing a perfume that contains allergens.

THE CHALLENGES OF MANAGING NATURAL INGREDIENTS

When talking about natural or “clean” fragrances, the presumed safety of these is often highlighted while overlooking the issue of managing the renewal of natural raw materials. Excessive exploitation of these resources can negatively impact the environment, notably deforestation, loss of biodiversity, and overexploitation of ecosystems. Some natural raw materials used in perfumery come from endangered plant or animal species, such as guaiac wood or sandalwood. The overexploitation of these species can lead to their decline and even extinction. Responsible management of natural raw materials, therefore, involves considering conservation issues and working to preserve natural habitats and vulnerable species. While brand initiatives attempt to justify their efforts in this direction, synthetic ingredients represent an alternative to limit the use of natural resources.

Local communities that grow or harvest natural raw materials used in perfumery must benefit equitably from this economic activity. It is crucial to ensure fair working conditions, equitable wages, and transparent business practices to ensure workers' well-being and the sustainable development of local communities.

The availability and quality of natural raw materials can vary based on environmental, climatic, and geographical factors. Managing natural raw materials in perfumery, therefore, involves ensuring a reliable and consistent supply chain and high-quality standards to guarantee the consistency of the resulting perfumes. This is far from an easy task!

In summary, responsible management of natural raw materials in perfumery involves finding a balance between environmental preservation, species conservation, fair trade, and product quality. This requires close collaboration between perfumers, suppliers, local communities, and conservation organizations to ensure the sustainable and ethical use of natural resources.

At Les Bains Guerbois, the “natural vs. synthetic ingredients” debate does not exist. Our partners and we are convinced that excellence lies in diversity. Les Bains Guerbois places paramount importance on using both synthetic ingredients for the creative freedom they allow and natural ingredients for the richness and personality they bring to our perfumes. Our creative partners share our vision of a more environmentally responsible perfumery, capable of delivering the best of what nature has to offer without compromising it.